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Welcome to my website!
Have fun reading about me, the stuff I´m doing, and the stuff I´m gonna do :)

news 2009/2010 * 2008 * 2007 * 2006 * 2005 * 2004

29 mei | Brento centro
Finally! After 11 days of wokrFuzzy and me finished the biggest project I've ever started. While the week before we still had big problems with the bouldery last pitches, this tuesday we could free climb every one of the 30 pitches. It is off course a team ascent, so we both did the pitches we bolted, and not eachothers.
The feeling of joy hasn't arrived yet, more the feeling of relief that this thing is finally over now. Besides that this was the ultimate test for my finger, now I can say that my injury has really past the worst.

Blog...

11 may | Season 2010
Since about a week or week I've started my training again. My injury isn't completely over yet, and I'll probably feel it for a long time, but I can climb at about my maximum without pain. Only 'Action direct' will have to wait some years :(
With the start of training I finally have a view on the season of 2010. I won't be doing any boulder comps, but I will be participating in all Lead events. I'll be focussing on the European championships in Innsbruck and the worldcup in Puurs (both in september). Since I'm 4 months late with training, I can only be fit in fall, so the first cups are just to get back in the game.
On point of motivation I'm back where I wanted to be, and my body and climbing feel a lot 'fresher'. I guess an injury does its good also...

11 may | Eastern
A quick update on my easter holiday: 2 Weeks of university break made me visit Croatia, where a friend of mine put up a superb new area called 'Pandora'. We bolted some routes, climbed some, and ate some Cevabcici.
After that the journey went on to the Dolomites, where I attended the first ever La Sportiva Athletes' day. From there I went to Ticino, where despite the 20° the snow was still omnipresent. Some bouldering and multipitches, good fun. More on my Blog...

26 march | Jorx on Blogspot!
Haha! I don't think anyone noticed, but I've been keeping track on my new blog since lately.
It still looks really bad, and not at all like the way I would like it to be, but it's only an intermediate solution, until I'm done with the new homepage, where a blog will be integrated.
My new homepage will be only in english, so you don't have to look on the .nl version for the 'real' up to date news :)

23 march | Marmot
I have recently started a cooperation with the outdoor clothing company Marmot. This american company has its european distributor based in Germany. The material they produce is high quality outdoor clothing, tents, sleeping bags etc.
It was about time I got some decent winter clothing, especially since I still have some projects on the 'to do list' that involve snow and low temperatures...

30 january | Study ≠ climbing
Well, climbing news I haven't got any, since I've been cruising 5+'s for the last couple of weeks, and I've reached the astonishing level of 7b without too much pain, so that would leave this website kind of white, maybe a little teinted at most.
Then this guy proposed to just put the stuff on my homepage that I'm doing at the moment, so here we go:
What I'm mainly doing is trying to be as nerdy as possible, to pass as many exams on university as I can. That way I keep up a little with the delays I took in the past. I'm facing 7 exams in the coming month, most in geological-mineralogical direction, so it's more stressy than a competition season...

30 january | Tourskiing
I can't ski very well, since I'm dutch and I've never properly learned how. But a little kamikaze style solves a lot, and normally I come down most slopes without injuries. Some days I'm not so sure about that though.
Two local guys (Reini & Gäri), who ski VERY well, took me with them on a tour, that acoording to them was, in a not very steep and wide gully. It was actually like that at first, but then it went around the corner, got steeper and narrower, and made my pants turn yellow and brown.
It was a beautiful descent though, and many thanks go out to these two guys, who had the guts to take me up there, and helped me get down too :)

30 january | Back to the roots
Hohoho!! And a happy new year to all of you! (yeah I know, I'm allways late...)
Katha and I spend our last week in 2009 in my home country, which it's not called dutchland, guess again. I could finally restart climbing, and where else better than the gym (halleluja) where I started climbing about 12 years ago, when the gras was green, and the meat still tasted like animals.
Twas a fun trip, seeing the dutch struggle with a few centimeters of snow (first white Xmas since 20 years), and meeting lots of old friends, who still didn't forget about me :)

3 November | Finally some news
I'm back! You haven't heard from me for a while now, mostly because i'm planning to remake this HP. I'll try to update you the best I can.

The first news is kind off nasty: I'm injured... Badly enough to quit the comps for this year, and have to recover for over several months. I hope everything'll be fine for the next season, and I'll be climbing for the podiums again. It's been a month now without climbing (diving on Borneo in stat), but i've restarted recently by climbing 5+. Still pain though...

15 Oktober | Alpine summer 2009
'Le petit Dru'. A 1000 meter high first class granite pinnacle I've been watching every competition in Chamonix. The 'American Direct' seemed the only line not lying in the valley (major rockfall 2004), so Fuzzy and me decided to get started.
Allthough we left our bivvy at 4 am we arrived at the top at 8 pm, with darkness closing in, and a bad weather forecast for the next morning... A bivuouac on top seemed no option, so we abseiled down the dangerous SE face at night, which involed some 'small' orientationproblems, a small rockfall over our heads, barely no material in place, in short no big fun.
The biggest problem of our ascent was that pitch 24 and 25 had gone to Chamonix for a beer in 2005, so we found ourselves in the loosest rockpile i've ever seen. The whole from bivvy to bivvy was a mayhem 15 hrs, not suitable for repetition. One hell of a mountain though.

15 Oktober | Alpine summer 2009
This summer no First Ascents, 'twas time for some classics. All around my homebase, from Swizerland to the dolomites, every route so much fun. The summer was just too short for the whole 'to do' list.
Here's some routes I found time for:
- 'Comici', Cima grande , 550m, 6b max
- 'Gelbe kante', Cima piccola, 450m, 6b max
- 'direkte', Acherkogel, 600m 6a max
- 'Westgrat', Salbit, 1000m, 6b max
- 'American direkt', Petit Dru, 1000m, 7a max

22 september | Monte Brento Part III
With a giant hangover from the rocking Masterparty in Arco, Fuzzy and me spend another 2 days in our project on Mt Brento (see part II). The first day we opened an alternative exit, since we thought the older one was too hard. Well, the new one is around 8c/+ (pitch 30!!!), so we went back to the old one... A slabby 8a+, alltogether possible.
Day 2 started at 3.30 am with a big dilemma: To check out the whole route in one day (abseiling is NOT an option). So the first 6 pitches we did in nocturnal houres, and when the light finally came, we were ready for the harder pitches. 14 Hrs later we stood on top again, just before darkness came, trying hard to not forget the 1000s of moves we had made.
All pitches cleared, a possible 2 8b's, 3 8a+'s, and a 8a slab. Then 8 pitches 7b/c, and another 10 over 7a. Endurance, Where art thou!

22 September | Lead season 2009
Starting with the world champs in China, the lead comps took a thrilling start. Not for me, after 5(!) moves in semi finals I fell... The next cups went better, but it wasn't like it used to be. some 9th position, 11th etc, nothing to make me too happy. The reason was I missed the feeling I used to have. Insecurety about my hurting finger, wchich also had it's effect on my training. Put that together with some strong concurrence, and slight reprise of bad luck, well, there you have it.
I'm almost starting to feel like the old generation in between so much youngsters, all so strong. Don't worry, I'll be back. I just need some time.

22 September | Sportsclimbing summer 2009
This summer I haven't spend so much time in the 'Klettergarten', in spite of the good weather. The hilti still had it training hours though, resulting in some new routes climbed, and some hard projects to be cimbed.
In spanish Baltzola, I refound my passion for on sighting, i'm psyched for next year. It wasn't that enlightning though, every hold made out of sika, just like kids playing with clay. I can also redpoint 9a in a gym, it's quite the same, only it doesn't rain inside... Deze Zomer heb ik ondanks het mooie, en vooral droge weer niet heel veel in de sportklimtuin verbracht, maar meer in de bergen daarboven. Toch heeft de boormachine nog hard zijn best gedaan, wat resulteerde in o.a. "The scoop", een mooie 60 meter lange 8b, lekker technisch op een kaarsrechte golvende wand. Daarnaast heb ik in de buurt van Innsbruck een aantal projekten ingericht, die rond de 9a inchecken, en nog geklommen zullen moeten worden, maar waar ik hard mee bezig ben.

24 mei | Monte Brento Part II
Three days in the wall, two days materialtransport (80 kilo), a lot of blood, sweat and almost tears: Our route is finally done:
Brento Centro, ~1200 meter, obl 7b A2.
Last year, Fuzzy and me already started a line possible to freeclimb on the 1000 meter high strongly overhanging face of Mt Brento. Now, we did it, after two freezing and wet nights on the portaledge, and 3 days of climbing on italian summer temperatures, the route is climbable. At least we hope it is...

1 februari | Febuary in Spain
When I got the offer to check out Omans big walls, I couldn't say no, unfortunately my passport did, since it's running off soon. As an alternative I chose to be getting real pumped in Spanish never ending crags. Since the weather in Spain is allways nice (check out the forecast), and the 278 9a's and higher are just waiting to be repeated, I got a cheap flight to Barcelona.
Together with Jake-O, Tomtom and Mark-a-man, first I'll do some endurance, then I'll head off towards Albarracin to join the cat, the fish and the stork (katha, Killi and Anna)

1 februari | Cross country skiing
A two day visit to the Ötzi's (Heiko, Babsy inc) first took us to the boulderoom, where there was some serious and not serious training, and then to the crosscountry skitrail. This sport is actually harder and more exhausting then you could think of, so after a few kilometer, we were down and out...

12 januari | Wintersport
Because my Hilti is still in between Chile and here, and cause it's freezing outside, climbing has been put aside, to make room for winter activities!
Together with some friends, we made a small tour in the Zillertal, hiking up (too steep) and then skiing down (way too steep).




Foto G. Hörhager

7 January | Chili without beans
December in Patagonia ain't that cold as it sounds, 25 degrees with a clear blue sky, and when even the north faces catch a full sun, your world has turned upside down.
5 Austrians and a lost dutch attacked Cochamo's many big walls, armed with a shitload of hardware, fear of water, and no knowledge of spanish whatsoever... Freeclimbing ain't easy in this valley so most of Cochamo's existing routes are aid routes, we tried to throw in a change.
Katha and I made roughly 5000 climbing meters on several climbs, like the first ascent of the Cerro Elefante (7b max, 700 meters), our new route up the Cerro Trinidad: 'The dutch corner' (7c max, 550 meter) and other superb existing routes.
Finally 10 days before our departure we saw the real 'Puta gonia', which means rain rain and more rain, and looks like the apocalypse...

7 January | Best wishes
Ho Ho Ho and a happy new year...

5 januari | 2008
The year has come to an end, the comps are finally over, and the cold times stand before us. Last year again I did a few comps to much, but hey, I'm learning slowly... A new setup in the season, putting the bouldering in spring and the lead in autumn, needs some getting used to, but what came out this year? Victory in the lead overall cup, a goal finally achieved, after getting so close for a long time.
My activities in rock have slowly evoluted in direction first ascents, multipitches, even some alpine routes, but the beginning of the year was full of bouldering, Hueco, Ticino, Font, all so nice. As a good closure of the year my first trip to Patagonia stood on the menu, but more about this later.

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